Diablo Mudo (the “Mute Devil”) is an attractive glaciated peak located in the Cordillera Huayhuash of Peru that presents a fine moderate mountaineering challenge in a remote and wild setting. Although it lacks the stature of other high peaks in the range, the views from the summit are breathtaking and the normal route is exposed to far fewer objective dangers than its higher neighbors. Either as part of an extended trek in the Huayhuash or as an independent objective, Diablo Mudo is an enjoyable climb in a breathtaking region of the Andes.
Though significantly lower than the six-thousand meter giants of the Huayhuash (Yerupaja, Sarapo, Siula Grande, Jirishanca, and Rasac), Diablo Mudo is by far the most frequently visited summit in the range. Commonly approached from the west from a basecamp below Punta Tapush, the climb is generally moderate with snow or ice slopes up to 45 degrees and a brief encounter with a mixed down climb over a rocky gendarme. . An ascent from a campsite at Cashpapampa followed by a descent via the Huacrish valley to lake of Jahuacocha makes for a fantastic day tour.
- Timing: 4D./3N
- Season: May to Agust
- Climbing Grade: Easy